Lacemaking terms

This is an opportunity to explain a few terms associated with lace - so here goes

Applique : Lace with springs , leaves and other designs sewn to the net .      Bobbins : Small elongated wooden or bone reels on which the tread is wound
Cutwork : Embroidery with part of the base fabric cut away.                          Darned Net : Embroidery on machined Net
Dressing : The cleaning, drying, stretching etc. of the brown net to produce the required finished dimensions
Duchesse : A mixture of bobbin and needlepoint laces.                                 Fillings : Different types of stitches
Furnishing Lace : Includes tableclothes, napery and bed linen.Curtains are made on huge curtain machines and some tableclothes and napery are also made on Leavers machines.           But the Raschel machine, increasingly dominant in the curtain trade is also capable of producing quite elaborate tablecloths 
Gauge : The fineness of the net. The larger the number of points the finer the lace    Guipure : Lace of a bold design with jointing bars open ground
Jacquard : The mechanism controlling the pattern by a system of differential thread selection 
Leavers : Named after John Leavers who invented a machine in 11813 still widely used. A modern machine has also more than 40,000 moving parts which twist thousands of individual threads to produce lace very similar in construction to the pillow laces of the past
Needlepoint :  Lace made with a needle and thread using  buttonhole stitches    Point : Term loosely  applied to fine quality lace
Pillow or Bobbin Lace : Lace made on pillows or cushion by twisting and plaiting threads attached to bobbins. To distinguish to needlepoint from bobbin lace use a magnifying glass. if the solid part of the pattern - that is the clothwork - is made up of looped threads the lace is needlepoint; if it plaited it is bobbin lace
Pricker : Short instrument used in bobbin lace making for putting holes in the parchment that in the required position to receive the pins
Pusher : Lace made on the Pusher machine , principally used for copying Chantilly lace in the 1800's
Raschel : The Raschel machine has been developed to produce at high speed a wide range of delicate, knitted laces in large quantities
Torchon : Bobbon lace of loose texture and geometrical pattern copied by machine      Warp  : The yarn around which the bobbin thread is twisted

Other lace terms  - Maltese, Mechlin, Chantilly, Lille, Cluny, Eidelweiss ( chemical lace), Valenciennes, Sandfly, Blond, Runner, Patterned,Pillow, Plain net, Point net, Comb, Runner, Scalloper, Slip winder, Stamper, Stripper, Threader, Warper,Winder, Spotted silk, Blond, Black, Quilling, Irish guipure,Ecru, Hexagon net, English net, Nottingham net, Buckingham lace,  Brussels net, Barmen lace etc etc.. ..